96. Nelson & Reefton

As I prepare this for posting it is 3rd October, exactly two years since we left home to start on our caravan adventuring. TWO YEARS???

After leaving Blenheim we spent a few days around Nelson while Dave helped his niece with some home improvements. We stayed in the NZMCA camp which is part of the Richmond Racecourse/Showground.

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The Racecourse is a very quiet place most of the time although it’s easy to imagine the bustle on race days. All the buildings are so old particularly the enclosed horse boxes, the doors worn down by generations of strong horse teeth. Nearby the open stalls were once shaded by an avenue of huge, really huge old trees, now reduced to stumps.IMG_3790

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Near the grandstand is a memorial to the Wahine, surrounded by a garden full of flowers and herbs (which I was invited to use).

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The grass everywhere was very green and identical brown horses covered with identical horse blankets grazed everywhere in the outlying paddocks – how do the owners tell them apart? Sheep grazed in the middle of the racetrack. A young police dog was being put through its paces in a back area.

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On Sunday morning there was a little Farmers Market – two fruit and vegie stalls, a soap stall with some creative products, one selling the usual alternative health products, and two craft stalls, one covered with original crocheted hats mostly a la Minion style but with various twists. I should have taken photos; here’s one of my more conventional ones if that adjective can possibly be used!

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We drove up to Mapua, Ruby Bay and Motueka for the day and explored the coastline. Motueka was once an important port but is now a pretty stretch of coastline deserted except for the wreck of the Janie Seddon which belonged to the big fishing company Talleys and was beached in the 50s. She was the company’s first fishing vessel built in Scotland in 1903 and was used as a Port Examination Vessel in Wellington during WW2. Talleys bought her as a coal-powered fishing trawler in 1947. Some people have expressed concern about safety hazards but as one local says, is the wreck any less safe now than it already has been for decades? It’s a landmark and a key part of Motueka’s history. http://www.stuff.co.nz/nelson-mail/news/63407740/Old-wrecks-days-may-be-numbered.

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It looked like the locals take considerable pride in the shoreline. Colourful flowers were everywhere. I was intrigued by what I think is a giant Billbergia (“Queen’s Tears”), certainly the biggest I’ve ever seen. We will have to go back later to see the flowers to confirm this.

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We’d had lunch at the Jester House and were due to meet Viv for coffee at Toad Hall  – popular local names! – but were late for the latter as we discovered a huge local ferry in a shipyard, being prepared for relaunching. This was the ferry on which a wedding party travelled from KeriKeri to Mapua the day before Penny went missing last year. It was awesome watching the huge monster being manoeuvred by a single tractor, with one other called in temporarily when everything got bogged!  IMG_3763 IMG_3769 IMG_3779

Also spotted; a sad little fishing boat which will not be putting out to sea again.

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Grouch 1: While in Nelson one morning I spotted a Beads shop and thought they might be able to fix a bracelet of mine so we went in – or tried to. A sign said Open from 10 am and it was about 9.45 then, so we took ourselves off for a not-really-needed-coffee and returned at 10.20. Still closed. We then went to the nearby Tahunanui Beach and had a lovely walk with Penny on what is surely a doggie paradise populated by any number of well behaved dogs. One in particular intrigued us, a foxie very similar to Penny but tan and white only.. It took us about a year to find our tricolour Penny and we never saw any tan and white advertised in that time. The owner confirmed she had been “difficult to find”! did not have my camera with me but managed a shot or two when we got back to the ute.  Back to the Beads shop, Open but nobody in sight and after hanging around for ages we took off in disgust. Maybe the owner was having her hair done at the next door shop, but she would have seen us hanging around surely. So my bracelet will have to wait for Christchurch.

Grouch 2: Speaking of bracelets, both Dave and I have MedicAlerts. We got these because we both have cochlear implants and in the event of a serious accident not only should we NOT have MRIs but if the external parts were dislodged it might not be obvious that one or both of us were totally deaf. The idea is that anyone finding us can phone the number on the MedicAlert emblem and quote the membership number and have immediate access to our medical records. BUT 5 months after joining I still cannot access my so-called Manage My Health account where my medical details are supposed to be found, and this despite many emails to MedicAlert and repeatedly changing my password at their request even though it is more likely the membership number which is at fault. I am getting fed up with this!!

We had a look at a couple of Show Homes while in Richmond. We now have a huge showbag of brochures and booklets from nearly all the big home builders, all with similar offers and as far as we can make out similar prices. I still hanker for a totally eco home though. The main stumbling block is not so much cost (that will come!) but finding some suitable land. Like Blenheim, Richmond and Nelson are undergoing a building boom, new home sites are being snapped up at an alarming rate, and the higher up the hillside the better the view and of course the higher the cost.

We drove back to Christchurch via Murchison, Reefton (2 nights) and the Lewis Pass. The gorse is ablaze everywhere, I wonder what the early Scottish immigrants would think if they could see what has happened with their importation which was intended for stock feed only – but the cattle preferred the soft NZ grass which is why the gorse is now so rampant.

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I’m not sure why I like Reefton, considering the first time I visited the town was in the depth of winter and I was fresh from Australia. But in spring it is a pretty place, the main road north is lined with blossom trees and there are so many quaint old buildings, particularly the court house (which we visited on an earlier trip).

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There also seem to be a number of friendly goats, including one in a paddock opposite T5, standing in a ‘field’ of aged cabbage leaves – maybe he is hoping I’ll give him something a little different. This one was at the entrance to the town.

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The air s full of the smell of burning coal – rather a comforting smell actually which takes me back to my childhood and steam train trips from Sydney to the Blue Mountains. We stayed at a POP site which caught the evening sun beautifully and gave a view over the town.

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We hadn’t planned to stay there 2 nights but the second day was so pleasant that we did. In the afternoon we drove a short way south and discovered some land for sale, complete with a cottage of sorts … here it is. A very desirable position perhaps.

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A little further on towards the town we stopped to investigate the swing bridge which takes one over the Inangahua river and to the site of an early power station. The area is just so rich not only in mining history but in the history of electricity in NZ – Reefton was the first town in the southern hemisphere to establish its own power station. Penny was not so keen on this swing bridge…)

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Back in town we found an old steam engine, wedged between a skating rink and a heated swimming pool on ‘The Strand’ (!). Signs told us that this was R28, an articulated locomotive ‘designed to cope with tight curves”. It has a long and convoluted history and is one of only two genuine single engine Fairlie engines in the world. Sadly it does not seem to have been looked after very well.

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95. More Blenheim Days -2.

Another Blenheim event we attended was a Dog’s Day Out organised by one of the local Vet practices. At least 40 dogs of all shapes, sizes and breeds gathered in a huge dog park which has a river flowing through it, surely the major attraction for at least half the dogs once they had finished their particular type of doggy meet and greet! IMG_3549 IMG_3547 IMG_3546

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The water may have been cold but when did that ever deter a determined dog?

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I was struck by the number of small fluffy white dogs and medium sized boxer dogs (plus a few larger ones) but there were also 2 Great Danes, a German Pointer, a Boston Terrier, two elegant Italian Greyhounds, a number of Alsatians (one with the most beguiling blue eyes) and of course any number of Bitzers.

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It was a lovely day for both the dogs and their humans, and especially good to see so many joyous dogs off lead and really enjoying themselves.

A third local event was a small Vintage Air show at the Omaka (Blenheim) airport. It was on a sunny but bitterly cold and windy day so of course many of the aircraft could not be flown or even brought out from their hangars. When we arrived the parking lot attendant seemed to be waving us straight into the hold of a huge Bristol Freighter – huge indeed at just over 68 ft long with wing span 108 ft. A sign showed that it had spent some 27,700 hours in the air and made over 33,330 landings.

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Omaka Aero Club was a training ground for WW2 pilots, and was taken over by the NZ Air Force in 1939. Training was mainly in the Avro Anson Mark 1 maritime patrol and reconnaissance bomber. This plane is now very rare and only is one still flying anywhere in the world – right there at Omaka.

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Restoration of other vintage planes is in progress ….. this one has a way to go.IMG_3657

Dave watched while the ground crew did an engine warmup of the Griffon engine in the Mk X!V Spitfire – 3 people were needed to hold down the tail in the strong wind.

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Seeking coffee and a bit of warmth we went into the Museum foyer (we have been to the Museum before, definitely worth a prolonged visit) and this time I took photos of an intriguing display, a Russian WW1 plane with a grappling hook (!) The Museum describes it as “one of the most outrageous aerial combat experiments undertaken during the war” by Colonel Aleksandr Kozakov. At that time few aircraft carried any armament. Although the grappling hook method didn’t work, Kozakov did down a German aircraft when his anchor got caught in a German plane’s undercarriage and he decided to strike the upper surface of the enemy plane with his undercarriage, which folded up …. the German plane lost control and fell to earth like a sack but Kozakov’s plane miraculously disentangled and landed safely. IMG_3678

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Another foyer sign told of an Imperial Russian Air Force pilot named Vladimir Laskin, who “… flew many different aircraft types including one in which he was required to remove the carburettor in flight, clear the obstruction and then  refit it!”. What fun. The phrase “Those intrepid men in their flying machines” took on a new meaning.

The crafter in me was also attracted by another display, two shadow boxes full of mementoes carefully displayed in little pockets … the photos tell more than I can (unfortunately reflections in the glass made good photos difficult). I have a number of such mementoes belonging to my late father in law Squadron Leader Bill Hoffmann; now at last I have an idea as to what to do with them. But it will have to wait till our caravanning days are if not over at least not continuous and I can access my stored boxes of family history in Christchurch.

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The first buds are finally appearing on the vines.It has been a rather cold Spring so far. This was taken beside the St. Clair restaurant where we had a farewell lunch with Robyn and her friend.

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On one last drive before leaving Blenheim we visited the site of the Wairau Affray, just out of Blenheim on the way to Picton. Most people probably miss it. In 1843 there was a confrontation between early settlers and local maori, who objected to their land being surveyed without their permission. According to an official sign, 22 “Nelson men” were buried in a mass grave on the other side of the stream. Intriguingly there is also a small set of graves near the site of the confrontation, obviously tended by local people.

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94. More Blenheim Days -1.

Time flashed by particularly quickly while we homesat in Blenheim. Apart from a couple of ‘events’ we enjoyed a very quiet, almost sluggish existence, ensconced in Robyn’s lovely warm house next to a vineyard and entertained by her garrulous little cat Kassia. Penny and Kassia have met on more than one previous occasion and had a guarded relationship, but this time Penny must have accidentally bowled over Kassia while chasing her ball and since then things have been more hostile but gradually thawing.

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I’ve done lots of boring things like washing all the caravan curtains, doing some mending and having fun in the kitchen. In between visiting Robyn in hospital we did some not too serious house-and-land hunting, inspected various show homes and drove through endless kilometres of vineyards. Their geometrical precision never ceases to amaze me.

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Intriguing too to see the number of workers tending the vines even though there are still barely any buds to be seen. Occasionally we spotted a cloudy UFO or two, the Blenheim skies seem particularly prone to producing them.

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And we visited a chocolate factory, the smell so overpowering when you walk inside that it is ALMOST all you need to do to be in chocolate heaven – at least until they offer you a sample!

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An eagerly awaited local event was the Marlborough Ploughing Championships. Here’s a shortened form of what I’ve written for the RV Lifestyle magazine:

Enormous placid horses with feathery fetlocks always attract me and I suspect many others who would not otherwise consider themselves ‘horsey’. Watching ploughing may not be many people’s idea of fun but there is something satisfying seeing those wonderful straight and occasionally not-so-straight lines of newly-turned sod appearing before one’s eyes. Also watching magnificent Clydesdale horses producing them, a task which they’ve done virtually unchanged for many hundreds of years.

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So mine were not the only anxious eyes scanning the rainy Blenheim skies for the week preceding the annual Marlborough Ploughing Championships in early Spring. Thankfully the skies cleared, and while gum boots were the only sensible footwear and the wind blew chillingly straight off the northern mountain range, the sight of 4 teams of horses pulling vintage ploughs, about ten vintage tractors doing their thing in the next paddock, and steaming hotdogs with onion and tomato sauce from a food tent threatening to blow away at any moment were enough to keep me entranced for much of the day.

There were two 4-horse and two pair ploughing teams. Although the basic premise is simple, I was surprised at the range of different ploughs starting with a simple one-disc walk-behind to an elaborate two-disc contraption operated by a system of brakes and levers with the ploughman sitting in a special seat.

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Add to that the need to control the horses, partly by long reins held by either the ploughman or a ‘walker’, and also by voice commands (“Forward one step”, “Whoa”, etc) and the complexity of harness – chains, collars, leading reins – and one begins to realise it’s not just a simple process. How long does it take to harness the horses and hitch up the ploughs I wonder, especially with larger teams of 6 or even more horses.

The object at the Championships of course is to plough the straightest furrows at just the right depth. The first furrow takes the longest time to do, with regular stops for adjustments. The patient gentle Clydesdales seemed unperturbed at the long waits although the leader of one team seemed to be saying “Hurry up, when do we start?”

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And how do they ‘turn’ at each end of a furrow? Those huge Clydesdales do some fancy footwork, crossing their front legs in unison to turn effortlessly in what seemed an amazingly small space. The plough they were pulling needed far more work to be hauled around!

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But it wasn’t all horses. There were about 10 vintage tractors, most gleaming with fresh paint. One in particular, a John Deere 40 driven by a woman, has been in the same Blenheim family since the 1950s. The drivers seemed to spend more time looking behind than looking ahead.  And just like with the horses, frequent stops for adjustments were being made in the quest for perfection.

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There was also an exhibition of sheep herding by an amazing dog named Shane, and for children the obligatory pen of new-born sheep, a young friendly sheepdog and a rather fat pig named Carol who we ‘met’ last year when she was a tiny piglet; mostly she seemed intent on copying the tractors and ‘ploughing’ her own special furrows.

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The event was hosted by the Marlborough Ploughing Association and Tua Marina Vintage Traction and Machinery Club. Up to 23 qualifying events are hosted by individual Associations throughout NZ. Winners are selected to represent the district in the annual NZ Ploughing Championships held in April or May each year. It goes further – the World Ploughing contest will be in Thisted, Denmark in early October this year with 30 countries competing. Serious stuff.

Tony from Christchurch came up for a few days; we plied him with food and drink and took him to Rarangi Beach and then Port Underwood, where the catches of various seafood is strictly limited.

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Everywhere the gorse blazed bright yellow. Back to Picton for lunch and to watch one of the inter- island vehicular ferries arrive. All too short a visit, but it was lovely to see a familiar face.

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93. Back in Blenheim

We’ve now been back home in NZ for just over 2 weeks and I am still coughing occasionally. It seems I’m not the only one either, many friends both in Australia and NZ report the same thing. This has been a wonderful winter for Flu bugs!

After trying to exist in misery in an impersonal motel room in northern NSW for a few days we fled to Nic and Mick’s welcoming country property, grateful that we did have family with a place into which we could crawl. It was brave of Nic and Mick to put up with the coughing sneezing pair of us, and we were so remorseful later when it became obvious that we had managed to pass on the bugs despite everyone taking precautions including no close contact and eating in separate parts of the living room! By the last week however I was feeling much better and enjoyed wandering around the property, it is an almost perfect example of the Australian bush, the only things missing were emus, wombats and platypus. I was still voiceless of course so using a write-on pad to communicate with everyone including the neighbours.

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So back to NZ after a looooong boring day. We had to return our hired car by 12 noon and our plane didn’t depart till 6.30 pm. Brisbane International Airport was undergoing a rejuvenation and only a few food shops and one newsagent were open, and we still had to wait till 3 pm when the Air NZ counter opened before we could go through Customs and get to the sole large duty-free shop.

We arrived on the usual Midnight Express and were grateful Ray was there to meet us and drive us to T5 in the chestnut orchard, with a brief stop on the way to buy bread and milk. Although it was cold after Queensland, it was heartening to see pansies at the airport and daffodils and other early Spring flowers in gardens as we drove past, and even some early blossom on a tree or two. Spring in NZ is an absolute delight. There wasn’t much to see in the chestnut orchard though, no buds visible yet, just some interesting patterns made by the catkins of the Alder trees bordering the orchard.

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Although cold, T5 did not smell mouldy or damp at all, a tribute to the three large open humectant containers which we had left behind in strategic places. The gas heater soon had things warmer, but there seemed to be a problem with the refrigerator, it wouldn’t start. We had to take T5 to the Jayco dealer next day and two men worked on it for some time before finally tracing the problem to a little switch which was concealed behind the fascia above the fridge and required the whole fridge to be removed from its mounting.  IMG_3274

A small problem had also developed with the water supply. The pipes gurgled and spitted instead of just delivering smoothly. Dave has almost fixed that but while we are home-sitting he is going to do a thorough purge of the whole system.

After 9 days in Christchurch with visits to the Dr. etc it was time to head north to get a bit warmer and homesit for Robyn while she is in hospital. Her dear little aged Burmese cat Kassia had Penny all sorted out previously, it was like we hadn’t been away.

On the way we  experienced one of those amazing weather changes for which NZ is famous. Driving down towards the coastline south of Kaikoura on a lovely clear sunny day we suddenly hit a huge bank of sea mist which continued all the way along the coast. As we drove up the last hill before Kaikoura suddenly we were in bright sunlight again, the snow-clad mountains to the north looming impossibly close (an optical illusion?), then the mist closed in again apart from the section just north of town where the mountains again put in an appearance. There may have been plenty of seals along the coast but nobody including us was stopping to try to view them.

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So here we are in Robyn’s very comfy warm home in Blenheim, with time to explore (when the sun comes out) and catch up on the Blog and numerous other things. There is much activity going on in the surrounding vineyards, even though the vines are still dormant. Most have been pruned down severely but in some places the remains of last year’s long wavy branches are still visible. People are moving up and down the lines checking all sorts of things. The next few weeks are going to be interesting, if the weather starts to warm up as promised.  Currently it’s raining, here’s the view through the living room window at Robyn’s place. IMG_3308IMG_3310

Next day: the rain has stopped – gosh, look at the new blossoms. Plus there’s snow on the distant mountains.

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Everywhere in Blenheim there are clumps of daffodils and also acacia (wattle) trees in full bloom with their distinctive scent, and trees everywhere are covered with white or pink blossoms. And the azaleas..!  I do miss my Christchurch garden.

We’ve just discovered that the Marlborough Ploughing championships are on again in Blenheim next weekend. Although watching ploughing is not exactly thrilling, there is something about the plodding horses guided by long leading reins and the sharp hoe slicing through the ground which I find fascinating. This time I also hope to catch a couple of the “farm animal and dog demonstrations” promised by the organisers.

92. Bowen to Townsville then Northern NSW

Back in Bowen from Yellow Belly it was all systems go to prepare for the Airlie Beach weekend market where Patrick sells his justifiably famous Bowen Mango Sorbet.

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The one-hour drive south from Bowen at dawn was frustrating as the most glorious sunrise could be seen through the trees but we could not stop to take photos.    IMG_2969

We reached the markets in good time and helped Patrick set up his stall, then for the next 7 hours he churned out sorbet after sorbet as Dave handled the cash…….

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…… and I wandered around trying to resist the amazing array of goods at one of the best markets I have seen.

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I did buy a lovely gypsy necklace in turquoises and blues, and a bracelet to try and make my newish medicare bracelet look a little less horrible (it broke 2 days later), admired the intricate shell ‘curtains’ at one stall….

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…..  the amazing dance a young Japanese girl did with a shiny orb which seemingly never touched her fingertips, the sand sculpture of a fire-breathing dragon, and of course sampled the food including that same Hungarian friend bread which was such a hit at the WOMAD festival in NZ a few months back.

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The air next to us was full of bird calls as the vendor played endlessly on his wares, and further away a band played an eclectic mix of didgeridoo plus guitar  …

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Camel rides on the beach were obviously popular.

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Our main objective on this Aussie trip was after all to search for a suitable caravan and tow vehicle, so reluctantly saying goodbye to Patrick and Sylvie and their incomparable French hospitality (and YES we did have a huge meal of king prawns on one occasion and plenty of mango sorbet!) we boarded a Greyhound bus for Townsville. The front seats being free, Dave had a good time sorting out the world’s problems with the driver while I was content to admire the scenery.

We had booked into a motel near the waterfront so did not have far to go to find some good food. Next morning we picked up a hired car, a very pretty little blue something, and for the next 2 days investigated caravan yards, finding several reasonable vehicles but not anything that really grabbed us. By this time I was feeling rather unwell and the heat was not helping, but we continued as planned, dropping off the hired car on the way to the airport and collecting another vehicle (a cute little red Kia) at the other end in Brisbane.

Our plan was to go straight down to Coffs Harbour and THAT caravan, but it seemed impossible to be in Brisbane and not do some visiting so visiting we did, and stayed overnight with some old friends and rewarded them with a dose of my developing cold. I feel so bad about that. Dave was also feeling a little unwell by this time.

But we accomplished the drive to Coffs Harbour, booked into the first motel we saw, had a lovely Indian dinner and next day finally saw THE caravan, a Jayco the same length but three year older than our NZ home. And very nice, too! I was immediately enamoured. The tow vehicle is a grunty black Jeep Cherokee in excellent condition. Some repairs to the caravan are currently being carried out and so it will not be available for about 2 months. Dave wants to wait till we have been to the Maryborough Motorhome and Caravan show next weekend before making a final decision.

Next day we made a quick trip to Port Macquarie to try and locate my errant brother Barry. We went to his last known address and were told he had left 6 years previously. But eventually we found him in a nursing home in nearby Wauchope. it was good to know he was being well cared for in pleasant surroundings.

Meantime I was developing a bad case of bronchitis coupled with a cold and not feeling very happy. Nor was Dave.

Dave writes …..

After spending an hour with Barry we returned to Coffs Harbour. A second night in the motel there and then on Saturday morning we left to head quietly back to Brisbane… but by the time we reached Brunswick Heads Nancy was coughing full time and I was feeling like I had been worked over by a heavyweight boxer so just before lunchtime we went in search of a motel to hole up in for a couple of nights, Nancy thinking she could shake off the coughing and me to overwhelm my bugs with a dose of alcohol. A very small “supermarket” just down the road from the motel provided essential sustenance so we turned the heater up high and settled in.

By Monday I was feeling fine but Nancy was definitely not so we headed off to the local medical centre for a consultation…  Bronchitis!!!  Not what we needed but because I was feeling good we drove on to Nic and Mick’s place as planned.

Then the lurgy struck again and I started coughing as almost as badly as Nancy, getting pretty frustrated with it all actually and the sooner I can shove it off the better.. Definitely wasn’t covered in our pre-winter flu shots. 

Nancy: so here we are still with Nic and Mick who are looking after us both well although they do follow us around with cans of antiseptic room freshener! After a few days of rest and sunshine in gorgeous bush surroundings I am feeling much better and have taken some photos of the magpies continually stalking the back lawn and a resident pair of parakeets, but Dave is still not 100% either so we have decided to forego to Caravan show at Maryborough and instead concentrate on getting better before catching the plane home on Wednesday. All plans for visiting Brisbane friends are off.

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91. Back to Bowen

It was just over 32 years since I left Bowen. Arriving in mid-1977 on our boat “Cornelius”, pregnant and unused to the Queensland heat, it was a while before I started to feel part of the place. My first husband Geoff and I had bought a run-down slipway and were determined to make a successful venture of it. We lived on board “Cornelius” for the next six years and survived a near-cyclone while Geoff built it up to a thriving business, with a new and much stronger cradle capable of handling large fishing vessels and a concrete block winch-house designed for future expansion. Initially I was the winch operator – it was an old car engine I think! – and Geoff was the all-important cradle operator, responsible for correct placement of valuable yachts and fishing boats so that as they were hauled out, they remained upright and stable – not as easy as it sounds as the slipway rails were not level. So to start with Geoff had to place the boat just so and slightly heeled over to one side, then as it was hauled out I had to keep a critical eye on the angle and immediately put the boat back in the water – fast – if it started to heel over too far the other way! Fortunately that only happened once or twice. Most slipping was done at high tide which invariably meant at night, so communication was by torchlight and hand signals. We had plans for a secondary runway and cradle but they had not come to fruition before Geoff died in 1983.

On Geoff’s and my first evening in Bowen we wandered up the main street and decided to try out a little cafe which advertised pizza and garlic prawns. We were not expecting much in a small country town but those garlic prawns were so good Geoff had several helpings, and thus started a long friendship with Patrick and Sylvie which continues to this day.

Bowen the town was much changed, I only recognised a few of the older buildings, but Patrick and Sylvie’s lovely rustic French style home was still there and as welcoming as ever. The harbour was just as welcoming from a distance but unrecognisable close-up, with many new moorings and reclaimed areas.

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Dave and I went down to the Slipway of course, now surrounded by a high corrugated iron fence. On asking permission for a wander around it was freely granted. It was good to see that the concrete block winch house is still being used, but the cradle rails have been straightened (!) and a new cradle is in place on the main slipway while what I was fairly certain was the cradle which Geoff designed and made in 1978 was still in use as the secondary cradle on the secondary runway which we had designed. I will need to check some old photos first to be certain.

During the 1978 near-cyclone the wind blew sand into every tiny crevice and joint; the moving parts of the cradle were seized up solid and Geoff had to melt the sand out later with a powerful blowtorch. It was impossible to face into that wind which of course reached its peak at night, coinciding with a high tide; we had left the spotlights on so the eerie scene was exhilarating and frightening at the same time –  howling wind, swirling sand, flickering lights, boats rocking madly (even with every possible bit of running rigging removed). We were triply fastened to two sturdy piles (those nearest the shore in the photo below, but there was no pontoon then) plus we had an anchor out into the harbour plus ropes to the mangroves ashore. There was concern that the high tide would lift the boat up and put it down on top of the piles. Some other boats forced their way as far up a mangrove creek as possible but others like us elected to stay in the harbour.

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Over the years Patrick and Sylvie have developed a rustic retreat which they named Yellow Belly after a snake which they saw there the first time they discovered the area. Located about an hour’s drive through parched bushland and at a remote point on a cattle station…….

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….. over the years it has become a focal point for the multitude of foreign visitors, mainly French, who seem drawn to Bowen and to P et S in particular, by magic.

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I was there at the beginning, one of many willing hands conscripted on the promise of a feed afterwards. Memorable meals at a long rough-hewn table in the shape of the gum trees. Sylvie with a broken arm after one of the roof beams fell on her.

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Some 10 of us would arrive in the morning with a motley collection of tools and materials, very rarely anything new. Slowly the outline of a hut took place. Over the years the plan was refined. There is now a workshop housing a generator, guest quarters, a cookhouse, an outdoor shower and of course a long drop complete with phone to the house if you run out of toilet paper.

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There are lots of interesting quirky objects, like this ancient coffee pot brought out from France, which once belonged to Sylvie’s great great grandmother. What stories it could tell. Or the blue and orange enamelled dish.

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A huge flood in 2008 almost reached the bottom steps. It can be seen from the second photo taken from the river bed just how far away the river is normally.

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It was all new to Dave of course, but I think he enjoyed our stay there.

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90. Queensland – Toogoolawah & Yeppoon

Our arrival in Queensland coincided with a bout of cool weather (of course we were blamed for bringing it over from NZ) and instead of T-shirts I found myself wearing light jumpers, even indoors. I was grateful for the wonderful wood burner which Nic and Mick have installed since our last visit, and enjoyed going out into the paddocks to collect more of their unlimited supply of timber. It was good to be back on the property which has had plenty of rain recently. The huge new dam was full, the horses were all looking sleek and well-fed, there were lots of roos around and the 2 dogs Pirate and Rascal were just as lunatic as ever (!).

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It was fascinating to watch the dynamics between the horses. Who to put with whom and where – a never-ending juggling act.

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Mick’s Richie was shifted to another paddock and the horses already there rushed over to check out the newcomer. There was immediate recognition between Ritchie and Nic’s retired Buddy.

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We “helped’ wean spunky colt Aidan from his mother, not very complicated as it merely involved leading LJ the mare away to a far paddock. Mother and son called to each other intermittently over the next few days but both had other horses to keep them company. LJ did not know it but after producing at least six foals, the last 3 for Nic and Mick, she is now entering honourable retirement.

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One day we all drove to Esk for lunch at an old wooden Queenslander full of quirky objets d’art and old photographs as well as great food. This is fast becoming a family tradition.

One of the objects of this Queensland visit is to search for a caravan and tow vehicle. We’d heard that they are often to be found in northern Queensland towns towards the end of winter, when southerners who have spent the winter in the tropics decide it is too much trouble to drive all the way back down south again. So we had planned to spend some time in the north. But the most suitable caravan rig we have heard about so far is in Coffs Harbour – on the NSW coast! So our plans may change.

On our last evening, as the sun went down and the sky changed colours, we met with Nic and Mick’s wonderful neighbours Pam and Mal for a champagne toast around the grave of N&M’s first brood mare Rosie who had to be put down some months earlier. Pam had planted it with a number of pink geraniums. (Next 3 photos by Dave).DSC02375

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All too soon it was time for the next stage of our caravan search “holiday” – the tilt train to Rockhampton. it was interesting to note that some of the movies on the small overhead TV screens were subtitled, but the frequent announcements re travel times, next station, etc were not. If I’d been travelling alone it would have been a bit of a worry as the train was half an hour late reaching Rockhampton.

We were met by a Darchy cousin ‘Darch’ and his wife Jan and driven to their retirement village at Yeppoon, about half an hour further north. The village is HUGE and attractive and has some unique lawnmowers – wild kangaroos which roam the streets freely. I was astonished to see so many in an urban area. Perhaps the lack of children and also dogs and cats makes it feel safe for them. Apparently they leave vegetable gardens alone and only occasionally feast on flowers.

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We had a mini Darchy family reunion in Yeppoon when two other cousins and their wives arrived in their caravans – Jaycos of course. After an all-morning session at a cafe, we went to inspect the new Emu Park war memorial overlooking the Keppel Islands. Having explored those islands fairly extensively by boat in years past, it was quite strange to see them from quite another viewpoint.

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From the Memorial a walkway led around a little beach to an imposing structure in the distance…. a memorial to Captain Cook’s arrival in the Keppels, designed by a woman artist. With a reasonable wind blowing, the structure ‘sings’.

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Yeppoon was indeed a Cousin paradise for me. Apart from the Darchys (my mother’s father’s family) a Hunt cousin (mother’s mother’s family) also lives there. We spent a great day with Arthur and Laurel. First we were shown around the Yeppoon coastguard station and their latest addition to the small fleet of rescue boats by the Commodore (Arthur).

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The Coastguard station is in the middle of the next photo which also shows part of Rosslyn Bay boat harbour. The bird was entertaining us while we had coffee at the yacht club.

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We climbed the steep hill overlooking the port and admired the Fan Rocks….

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The boat harbour is protected by a huge man-made wall, but during the February cyclone waves broke right over the wall.

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This beautiful old yacht caught my attention: IMG_2581

After a great lunch Arthur and Laurel lent us their car for the rest of the day to explore caravan possibilities in Rockhampton. We did find one we both liked but far too pricey at a dealer’s, and no tow vehicle. That dealer did say he had several buyers waiting to trade in older for new caravans, but they were all waiting to see what happens with the (Australian) budget. So we may have to wait too.

We attended a local Choral Society performance of ‘Cats’, produced and directed by Laurel, and that night the Darchy mini-reunion continued at a theatre restaurant . ‘Cats’ was most impressive for a small country town, and it was interesting to walk through the entire cast on the way out of the theatre and be able to admire their elaborate costumes and make-up. The Theatre Restaurant was small and involved audience participation, which usually makes me cringe. However, I was pointed out as the grandmother of a particularly glamorous young actress and everyone told she had got her good looks from me, so I wasn’t too unhappy! Dave escaped notice apart from being dobbed in as a New Zealander and Darch had the glamorous actress collapse in his lap. The other Darchy boys similarly attracted some ribald attention. Apparently the theatre people have experienced Darchys in the audience before.

Next stop is Bowen where I spent six years living on the boat “Cornelius” (see her story on another part of my website at nancyvada.me). My daughter Nicole was born in Townsville and we returned to ‘Cornelius’ a day later, just a week before a very hot and steamy Christmas.

89. Winter 2015 – Christchurch

All good things come to an end and so it was with our second winter 2015 homesit at a dairy farm near Rakaia. Our charges the dog Ally and cat Marvi were a joy; after some initial hesitation even Marvi was happy to accept Penny as another animal with which to share their home.

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I took lots of photos of sunsets and snowy mountain ranges, both clearly visible from the homestead. It was lovely having a full-sized oven although it took me a little while to get used to it after my slightly temperamental smaller sized oven in the caravan – in fact it fought back, giving me a small burn and scorching a tea towel.

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We had several visits from friends and relatives and made a couple of trips into Christchurch including one special one to inspect a brand new baby, and enjoyed exploring the countryside around. But more often we just relaxed  ….

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The day the owners were due to return we shifted back to T5, where we were visited several times by Ally and Marvi who must have been a bit bewildered by this turn of events. I was sorry to leave them but I think Penny was happy to be the subject of our undivided attention again!

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One thing marred our leaving, it seems a small mouse must have taken the opportunity when the front door was open to zip inside the nice warm house and into the bedroom nearest the door, or perhaps it was brought inside by the cat. At any rate the day after we left a peculiar smell started in that bedroom, and it was not till several days later that it was traced to one by then very dead mouse hidden in the bedclothes.

So now we are back in the chestnut orchard in north Christchurch where we will stay till it’s time to hop on a plane heading for a relatively warmer place – Brisbane. The orchard looks so different …. bare trees and a huge amount of leaf litter and soggy chestnut husks on the ground. Some of our old friends are still here and we were delighted to find a Photographic Society member here too.

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A lone black alpaca romps around in a paddock at the back of the orchard and bounds over to say hello when Penny and I go for a walk.

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We have shifted to another site in the Orchard so we now have power and can run the small electric heater and use the electric toaster and microwave. As quite a number of other caravans/motorhomes have the same idea, it is necessary to limit ourselves to one appliance at a time or else the main fuse blows out – as happened several times on a very cold night!

We discovered a small leak in a water pipe in the bathroom, of course in a difficult place to access, but it was very lucky we did discover it or else we might have been returning from Australia to a caravan with a soggy mildewy carpet. Luckily Dave was able to replace the pipe without TOO much trouble. (Try lying on the cold wet muddy ground under a caravan).

We’ll be away in Queensland for a month and after a week with Nic and Mick intend to travel up the coast. At Yeppoon we hope to have a mini-reunion with several of my Darchy cousins plus a cousin from another family, then on to friends at Bowen and perhaps Townsville and Cairns. We will be looking for a suitable caravan and/or towing vehicle and by the end of our Australian trip we should have a better idea of what our future plans are (!). We also hope to fit in a Motorhome show at Maryborough just before we leave.

88. Bankside, Rakaia

We left beautiful Rarangi with regret, it was a lovely interlude with the dogs in such an outstanding home and environment. Friend Robyn arrived home from overseas the day before so we met her at the St. Clair Winery and had a delicious platter featuring the best of Marlborough produce, washed down with a glass of pinot noir. I can’t wait to go back there again!IMG_2010

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We were heading for a Jayco Caravan get-together at Geraldine, but rather than make the long haul in one day we stopped at the fairly new NZMCA site at Parnassus, just off SH1. That night there was a very severe frost and when Dave went to put the kettle on next morning discovered we had no water – all the pipes were frozen! Luckily there was just enough water in the hot water bottle for our morning coffee, and porridge made with all milk is delicious. As the day wore on the cold water started to flow again, but something had happened to the hot water system and we had no more hot water until the valve was replaced some days later. We took care to fill the kettle and also a saucepan with water that night.

We stopped at Christchurch just long enough to have lunch with Ray and catch up on all the news, then on to the Brewery Cafe about 11 km past Geraldine where there is a good POP site – but no other Jayco caravans. Where was everyone? It wasn’t till the next day that two others turned up.

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We had a splendid breakfast next morning at the Brewery Cafe. That evening the entire Jayco contingent – 6 persons – enjoyed a beer tasting followed by a meal at the cafe.

Jayco Owners Group05Next morning the endless comparisons and ‘tours’ of the three caravans from both male and female perspectives flowed on and on. In summary it was a very fruitful and enjoyable gathering and even Penny had fun with the miniature schauzer from one of the other caravans. We also met the owners of the brewery and learned something of the history. 

From Geraldine, after a long stop at the Barkers’ shop in town (of course!), we went straight to our new homesit just north of the Rakaia Bridge of mixed memories.

Some years ago pre-T5 we were heading for Tekapo for a long weekend with our boat and just as we got onto the bridge one of the boat trailer tyres burst. We could not stop on that narrow bridge so continued, emitting the most alarming sparks and bursts of flame as the rim of the tyre bit into the roadway. The moment we got off the bridge we leapt out with a fire extinguisher, as did the man in the car behind us. Someone else had phoned the police and the local off-duty cop arrived soon after, not having stopped to change into his uniform. He was very helpful and soon after a local garage man arrived with some heavy duty tools and together he and Dave managed to bash the distorted wheel off and put another wheel on, which just lasted to the nearest garage where we left the trailer to be fixed. There was no fishing on Lake Tekapo that weekend. 

So now we’re halfway through our second winter homesit and the time has flown. I am really enjoying playing at being a farmer’s wife on a large dairy farm with a lovely warm kitchen-family room with big wood fire and full internet access at any time of the day – bliss! We have both been catching up on viewing all the videos we could not watch while in the caravan as they take up too much bandwidth. There are no cows around at present, they are dried out over winter. Our charges are Ally the friendly Jack Russell cross who fancies herself a biker’s moll, always going off for a ride with the farm hands, and Marvi a half-grown and always hungry, endearing little grey tabby. Ally and Penny seem happy to swap beds beside the fire.

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A contented threesome – the eyes have it.Bankside02The weather the last two weeks hasn’t been too bad either apart from some heavy rain. The homestead is very sheltered so we hardly notice it when it blows; for some reason we were also spared much of the snow and power outages that occurred all around us at Methven, Darfield, Hororata etc. – all within about 25 km. We can see the snow-clad mountains easily from the kitchen garden, and the first week there were some splendid sunsets.

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We took a drive towards Methven; at that stage there was only a little snow on the mountains.

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A few days later, the picture had changed. (Photos taken from close to the homestead, the mountains seem so much closer in clear air).

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I’ve completed Volume 3 of the Circumforaneous Gibbs Book-of-the-Blog and am eagerly awaiting the arrival of the printed volume towards the end of the month. I’ve fixed it up so the whole book can also be downloaded as an eBook for $4 from blog.com.

Rakaia township is our nearest shopping point, only about 5 minutes’ drive away over the river. At the moment the river is running high following the heavy rain on the west coast which flooded Hokitika.

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I’ve passed through Rakaia innumerable times but this is the first time I’ve really got to know the township. It began on the northern bank of the river in the 1850s. In 1856 William Dunford acquired a ferry licence and over the next few years an accommodation house and stables were built. At times travellers had to wait for days with their horses, coaches, stock, bullock teams and drays until the river was passable. River drownings were not uncommon. In the 1860s Dunford had two specially-designed punts made, replacing the original punt,  to carry passengers and possessions. Cobb & Co. built stables at the south end in1864, and by 1872 when the new road and rail bridge was built most business enterprises were based on the south bank.

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Apart from the well-known huge salmon sign ….

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… and visitor centre and a large modern farmers’ centre, Rakaia has TWO 4-square mini-marts almost back-to-back (why?), 2 old pubs, a medical centre, tiny pharmacy, old wooden church and masonic hall (now a private home?) still awaiting earthquake repairs, and not much else apart from the usual country town homes and some marvellous old buildings surely worthy of heritage status but sadly neglected. IMG_2181 (2)

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Near the leaping salmon sign are two nondescript huts, but look closer and one has two peculiar doors, one with a spyhole. Signs tell the story ….  IMG_2197 IMG_2196 IMG_2192  IMG_2188

87. Rarangi Beach

Our first homesit for Winter 2015 is drawing to a close. 2 weeks in a beautiful warm sunny home right on the beach at Rarangi, 10 minutes’ drive NE of Blenheim.  IMG_1824

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I never tire of the view from the back deck …. (That is a bit of tree stump, not a person!)

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That’s the bottom of the North island in the distance.

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Our charges this time are Nonny (a Swedish Valhund) and Dudley (a standard Schnauzer). Both readily accepted Penny – and us – as an addition to their household so now Dave and I are shadowed around the house and garden by 3 dogs and cannot sit down without at least one wanting to plop on our feet if not in our lap.

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Dave has been the chief dog walker while I took over the awesome kitchen with its super fast touch-controlled ceramic stove top which can boil a kettle in just a minute. This house has more glass than walls, a beautiful cork tiled floor throughout, and huge cupboards with space for most things so the house has a clean minimalist look with just a few quality pieces of art on the walls. Doubtless due to the looming mountain range to the north it is colder here at the beach than in Blenheim and washing takes longer to dry; we are glad of the wonderful wood-burner fire in the evenings.

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One weekend Dave’s niece Viv came to stay and we took her for a long drive up to Port Underwood and round the top to Picton and then home. We’d done much of that drive before but could never tire of the glorious scenery.

Before starting up the hill we had a look at Monkey Bay at the end of Rarangi Beach Road.. Definitely not a place to go swimming. A cave leads right through the rock and water can be seen swirling around at the other end.

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This is the view looking back towards Rarangi and then Blenheim. All the vineyards are masses of golden yellow as autumn colours deepen.

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There were numerous little bays along the gravel road.

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At Ocean Bay an old whale blubber pot marks the spot where whale trading commenced in 1830. Sheep and cattle farming were also attempted in the area.

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Robin Hood Bay provided some pretty scenery.IMG_1692 IMG_1690 IMG_1689

At one bay there was an Outward Bound camp, and some hardy youths braving the chilly water.

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Finally we reached Port Underwood, where some fishing vessels are still based.

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Rather than continue straight on to Picton we took what amounted to a very long side road which led us right around the large bay at the end of Port Underwood. Retracing our route finally we reached Picton in time for a very welcome late lunch at about 3 pm!

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The Blenheim Farmers’ Market on Sunday was delightful. Lots of wonderful enticing food, coffee and produce …. no rubbishy items which blight so many markets these days. Morning tea was served on tables with lacy tablecloths. A special stall raised money for the Nepalese earthquake victims – huge delicious spicy Nepalese dumplings.

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A visit to the Wairau River bar on a DFO day (dull, flat and ‘orrible in photographers’ parlance) still resulted in some great photos. High tide was several hours earlier so the river had got up quite a run, producing some wonderful swirly patterns as it met the gentle waves of the ocean. On a stormy day it must really be quite a sight.

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Mostly we stayed in the house or on the beach, but we did make several forays into town to investigate the housing market, with a possible view to shifting up here where it is warmer once we have got most of the wanderlust-in-a-caravan out of our systems.